Dodging potholes in Bulgaria
The greatest thing of the Randonneuring world is that it is really
worldwide. Brevets everywhere, and new 1200km brevets are constantly
arising. So for this year I chose Sofia-Varna-Sofia as season's
goal. After some checking of prices and schedules, I flew in via Varna
using a German charter flight filled with sun-seekers. At the airport
I was picked up by Zdravko, a young Bulgarian randonneur. He assisted
me going to the bus station, from where I took the bus to Sofia. In
Sofia I stayed at the apartment of a friend, while most other foreign
riders were staying in a hotel near the start.
On Wednesday evening the start was scheduled at the usual time of 22
hours. When I arrived at the start for the bike check up at 19h, the
start facilities were still under construction. But no problems with
that, plenty of time to look for a restaurant. By 21.30 the place
started to fill up and riders appeared from everywhere. A few minutes
after 22h we were sent off, escorted by a police car.
There were 21 riders starting, 11 foreigners and 10 Bulgarians. One
rider didn't start, Karl Hrouda. The first kilometers were at the
usual brisk pace. No red lights to wait for, and a good bunch. A
while outside of Sofia crosswinds emerged. I was at the back of the
pack at that moment, and could see the break coming. So I decided to
move forward to be ahead of it. And indeed, soon afterwards the group
split up. With about a dozen riders we continued on at a fast pace,
pointing out the usual potholes. The first pass (800m) was taken with
most of the group intact, the few people dropped off managed to get
back in the descent. Shortly before the 70 km mark I punctured in a
pothole. Simon told me that they would wait at the all night cafe
indicated on the routesheet, just 2-3 km away. When I passed that
place after mending the puncture, I could see that it was not really
24 hour. So on I went. After I while I met up with Daniel Fisher, and
we continued on. On top of the first pass a car was waiting with
refreshments. A few solo riders were passing here. During the descent
I sensed quite a wobble in the back wheel, so at the first convenient
place I retrued my wheel. On the road again I kept on pushing to
regain time. During such brevets I have to earn a comfortable time
cushion during the first day, during the later days I'm mostly
plodding along. After about 150 km I spotted some riders, and with
some hard riding managed to catch up. It was a small group with Adrian
from Bulgaria, Simon Kolka, Chris White and Dany Fisher.
Together we continued on to the Kazanlak control. At the entrance of
town there was a police car waiting for us, and pointing us in the
right direction. The control was in a bike shop, which was very
convenient to get the wheel professionally retrued.
There was quite a good atmosphere in the Kazanlak control. The
mechanic had lot's to do because of the many potholes. Jan
Christiansen announced that he would do no further night riding on
this brevet, just too many holes in the road.
I lounged quite long, in fact too long before setting out again. On
the road I met up with Dany again. There was a severe headwind slowing
us down. About halfway a roadside shaslik stand was a welcome
stop. With not much problems we arrived at the control just outside of
Sliven. Here we could just greet a few departing riders. And the first
DNF came in. Colin's bike was strapped to a car. He had hid a big
pothole and severely buckled his wheel. Bad news also for Mike who
lost lot's of time assisting Colin. In the center of Sliven was
another stop, to meet some local journalists. I decided to play the
journalist and headed for the internet center to write a first
impression. That might have been bad planning since the stretch from
Sliven to the next control proved to be very difficult. The climb out
of Sliven lasted somewhere around 2 hours for me, despite
encouragements from some local riders riding with us. Jordan, one of
the Sliven club members participating in the brevet was riding shortly
after me. On the top of the pass was a secret control, which was very
welcome. The descent was one of the few roads on the entire stretch
with good asfalt, so I could really let it go. Jordan was nowhere to
be seen afterwards. The road continued along lot's of tiny
villagers. The locals were herding in their cows, goats and sheep for
the night. Lot's of traffic, but hardly anything mechanised. Horses
and donkeys are the main mode of transport here.
Shortly before the Veliko Tarnovo control it got dark. Some difficult
navigation followed, including a detour of 5k in the outskirts of Veliko
Tarnovo. When I got back to the center, I flagged down a police car, which
showed me the way to the control.
In the control I could see many bikes, but no riders. Most riders were
sleeping here. I had decided to push on, I'm too slow to sleep
much. While leaving the Veliko Tarnovo control I spotted an open
supermarket, so I could stock up for the night. The only thing missing
now was a dinner. Since the first part of the route was going over the
main road to Romania, I was sure to find something. And indeed, a
restaurant was still open just after Veliko Tarnovo. While in the
restaurant I some of the Bulgarian riders passed. The food didn't go
down that easily though. Some 2 km after the restaurant I had to stop
to rearrange the contents of my stomach.
About 8 km out of Veliko Tarnovo there was a side road no to be
missed. So I took my time for it. The first side road which matched
the description I took. A km further on there was a cafe where I
could ask for directions. And indeed I was on the wrong way. But this
did cost me only 2 km, in stead of the 50 km some people reported.
The rest of the night ride was very lonely. I didn't see a single
rider. The road was slowly going uphill, but not steadily. And on the
top there was no clear plateau. Near the top was a mineral water
fountain, a good refreshment. Also some benches there, but due to the
wild animal warning, I decided against sleeping there.
By daybreak I reached a main road again. Slowly living objects were
visible. After a while I could see a cyclists a while behind me. I
sat up to let him catch up. It proved to be Dimitar Balanski, the
Bulgarian ACP correspondent. We rode together for a while until I
spotted Daniel sleeping by the side of the road. I turned around to
take a picture, and he woke up. In the distance some other riders were
visible. We all banded together and checked the routesheet. A
restaurant was mentioned near Popovo, and all of us felt for a
breakfast. When we slowed down we spotted the jury car, and some
secret controllers.
At the secret control soup was a hot item. Everybody was eating
it. Some riders took a short kip afterwards, and the controllers were
busy giving a rider a massage. From Popovo we cycled towards
Razgrad. Nothing really changed this day. The roads were still very
potholed, it was hot and the road was going uphill, and yes, the
scenery was beautiful as ever. Near Razgrad I was running out of
water. I had expected the route to lead through the town, but we took
the ring road far around it. So it lasted a while until I managed to
restock on water. Luckily I found the side road to Isperih (in the
middle of a steep downhill). From there on I had 30 km to go, and time
was ticking away. Control closed at 12.15 (15 kph limit), and it was
already past 10. So I really started cranking it. Instead of the
expected downhill, the road was undulating. That was an unwelcome
experience.
Towards Isperih some faster groups came up from behind, mostly
consisting of people whose bikes I had seen in Veliko Tarnovo. I tried
to keep up with them for a while, and I rolled into the control
together with the Danish group, with only 30 minutes to spare. That
tells a lot, more than half of the riders were within one hour of the
time limit 574 km into the ride. There was sleeping possibility here,
so I opted to sleep half an hour, the first sleep in 65 hours. When I
came down everybody was gone. The controllers were waiting for the
last two riders, Mike and Jordan. They would be very relaxed on the
time limit, after all the RM time limit of 13.3 kph was not yet
passed. Just when I was about to leave the Varna controllers phoned
in. No rider had yet been varna (14h).
I left Isperih in the heat. That was very unwelcome for me. I'm hardly
capable of riding in temperatures above 35C. So I took it slowly
although I didn't have the time for that. In regular intervals I
stopped in the shade and tried to get hold of ice-cream or cold
drinks. Luckily my stomach kept on functioning, it didn't shut off
this time. But still I was very worried. I felt a heatstroke coming,
the headache was already there, and my temperature was rising. Above
that, my hands were severely bruised by the constant potholes. Some of
them were big enough to destroy a wheel. I pictured my bike standing
in some rifts, without anything supporting the bike, the rifts were
that deep and small. Still I managed to reach Novi Pasar by the start
of the evening. I should have been in Varna allready to keep up with
the schedule a bit, but the situation was simply too difficult.
In Novi Pasar I tried to eat. I bought some ice cream and crisps. If
that would go down well, I would continue, otherwise I would shortcut
to the Madara control and have a good sleep there. When I was about to
restart the sag car passed. They were assisting Mike and Jordan, the
last riders on the course. The sag-crew Kazimir and Alexander asked us
if we would like to continue together, then they could go to Madara to
sleep. I expected us to arrive in Varna just before midnight, they
would inform the Varna controllers about that.
So from Novi Pasar we set out together. Out and back to Varna would be
120km. The first kilometers went without much problems. We took our
regular breaks. 35 km before Varna there was an all-night gas station,
so we only had to stock up for 70 km of riding from thereon. Just
after the gas station we were scheduled to go left. Jordan was
leading. He simply followed the signs for Varna and dashed straight
on, into the descent. It lasted a while until I caught up with him. I
told him that the route sheet told us to go left, but he told me that
the right way was straight on. Since he is local I believed him and we
carried on. While nearing Varna we remarked that we were totally off
course. Jordan asked around and finally found a road back to the
original course. This detour did cost us nearly two hours, time which
we didn't have in our hands.
In the village of Suvorovo we rejoined the course. There were still
some bars open here around midnight, so we could stock up. Uphill it
went to wards the control, which was not in Varna itself, but on a
hill just before the town. The restaurant there was still closed, but
the controllers were sitting in front of it in their car. They
provided us with water and food, and we headed back in the direction
of Sofia. Nearly 700 km done, and dodging the time limit. In the
descent I hit a pothole and punctured again. And yes, again I had to
retrue my wheel. The man at the gas station was quite surprised when
we returned halfway the night. But his services were very welcome, and
we made full use of them. The remaining ride to Novi Pasar was quite
uneventful, apart from a few sleep attacks. But from Novi Pasar to
Madara was quite difficult. The control was located on top of a steep
hill. We managed to inch our way up it, and finally arrived at 7h.00,
just the time of the RM time limit. All the others were gone already,
the controllers were sound asleep. I fell asleep without looking for a
bed. After an hour I woke up and was shown a bed.
When I woke up at 9 Kazimir and Alexander were also awake. I discussed
the matters with them. My hands were aching, a hot day was expected,
and we were nearly out of time. Still they motivated us to carry
on. We had breakfast together in an adjectant restaurant and pushed
on. Towards Targovishte it was a good road. Still we took a break or
two to get water, food, and apply bum- cream.I had calculated that we
should be in Omurtag at 1600 hours maximum, otherwise there would be
no chance at all to be in Sliven on time. In Targovishte we stocked up
again. I went to get some extra medical kit, some soft patches to put
on my hands and pain killers. I arranged everything on my hands in a
small restaurant, and set out again. Kazimir and Alexander would stay
there for a while watching the world cup match, and then would wait
for us in Omurtag.
But I was not going to reach Omurtag. Shortly after Targovishte I felt
that my hands were not getting anything better. I still couldn't hold
on the handle bars for more than 10 km. And on top of that, it was
getting scorching hot again. No way to reach Omurtag by 16h in this
way, no way to be in time in the Sliven control. So I turned around
and headed back to Targovishte. There I found Kazimir & Alexander. I
proposed that I'd take the bus to Sliven, but they offered to take me
there by car. So I put my bike on the rack and we went on.We met Mike
just before Omurtag. He made it just before 16h, but was completely
devastated. He reckoned that if he had to do a 360k ride in this
shape, he would not even start it. So also he went into the car.
From the car it was clear once again that it was a good decision to
stop. A while after Omurtag we met Jordan again. He had allready been
carrying on while we were shopping in Targovishte. He looked really
bad, but still wanted to continue. We headed on and stopped after a
while for dinner. After an hour or so Kazimir headed back to look for
Jordan. He didn't have to look back for long, Jordan was
approaching. But also he decided to quit. Now it was the problem of
squeezing 3 bikes and 5 people in a Fiat Tipo. But we managed,
although it was a tight fit.
In Sliven we dropped of Jordan at his house. Then Kazimir passed by
his house. At the control in the Mineral baths of Sliven everybody
was gone. We proceeded on to the next control, a village house in
Manolovo. There was a lot to do here. Lot's of riders were still
around, eating, and drinking wine and beer. Only two riders had left
the control, Haratayam from Stara Zagora and Chris White. All the rest
was either sleeping or eating. Colin was also there. We were the last
to head for the beds. In the morning all of us took it easy. The
riders had gone already. It lasted some riding before we saw the first
rider on the road. He lost a few spokes in his back wheel. I took the
rear wheel out of my bike and got him going again. Mike was a bit
surprised that an 8-speed Campa wheel would fit on a 5-speed chain,
but it did.
Further on we met several groups of riders, and a few solo
riders. Most of them ditched some superfluous luggage in the car. They
were mostly still feeling good enough to be sure of a finish. We rode
on to the finish, while the car with Kazimir, Alexander, Colin and
Mike stayed behind some of the slower riders. At the finish a few
dozen people were waiting. We didn't have to wait long before the
first groups appeared. They were all looking quite fresh. The guy
with my wheel overtook some of the riders before him and finished well
in time. There was lot's of discussion about the toughness of thus
ride, but everybody agreed that it's harder as LEL, PBP and
BMB. Riders remained unsure whether SVS is harder as the Crackpot or
not.
One rider came in just 6 minutes before the cut-of. He was completely
exhausted. He directly crashed out. Some of the helpers and the doctor
rushed towards him, but he was alright. Finally we all got our cups,
and most riders withdrew to a pub for the world cup final.
Ivo